Margate is often hailed as the coolest seaside town in the UK. Once known mainly for its traditional Victorian seaside attractions, it has reinvented itself as a cultural hotspot, drawing in trendy Londoners who swap the capital for fresh sea air without giving up their beloved coffee shops, bars, and restaurants.
In fact, The Kent coastal spot earned the name of'Shoreditch-on-Sea' due to its fashionable shops, eateries and celebrity sightings. For this reason, Margate had been on my bucket list for some time - a seaside retreat, an opportunity to bask in the sun, meander through eccentric shops, and perhaps even paddle in the sea. So, when my husband and I decided to visit during the summer, I was thrilled. I envisioned golden sands, crisp sea air, and a quintessentially British coastal town.
Margate is of course renowned for its beachfront promenade, tidal pool, shell grotto, art gallery, and amusement park, Dreamland. The chic seaside location has connections to famous personalities, such as The Libertines, who own a boutique hotel, while artist Tracey Emin considers it her home - not forgetting that J.M. W.Turner went to school here.
Other celebrities, including Pedro Pascal, Rami Malek, and Emma Corrin, have also been seen frequenting the town, which boasts a population of approximately 63,000.
Sounds idyllic, doesn't it? However, the reality was somewhat different.
The train ride from London was smooth enough, and as we disembarked onto the platform, the warm, salty breeze was promising on what was one of the year's hottest days.
We began by strolling through the town, popping into independent shops and vintage boutiques. I could understand why people were so enthusiastic about the town's artistic side - cafes with pastel-coloured exteriors, small galleries showcasing local artwork, and antique shops brimming with peculiar treasures.
Despite being repeatedly hailed as one of the best and coolest seaside towns in recent years, Margate has its fair share of issues.
While there were pockets of charm and creativity that felt unique to Margate, for every quirky shop, there was another boarded-up building, a tired-looking street, or a sense of something that had seen better days.
Then came the beach. The sun was high, the heat relentless, and we were eager to sit by the sea and cool off. But the moment we stepped onto the sand, disappointment set in. It was filthy.
People were blasting music from portable speakers, while McDonald's wrappers, empty cans, and fish and chip packets were strewn across the beach, half-buried in the sand.
It smelled distinctly like seaweed and sewage, making it hard to relax without an assault on the senses. The water, which I had hoped would be a refreshing escape from the heat, was murky and uninviting.
The beach itself was impossible to relax on thanks to the sheer number of seagulls circling overhead like vultures. At one point, a huge flock descended in a frenzy, fighting in a gladiator-esque brawl over nothing more than an empty picnic bag.
The squawking and wing-flapping drew the attention of everyone around us, who watched a scene that looked straight out of Hitchcock's The Birds. After a few too many swoops uncomfortably close to our heads, we decided we'd had enough. We left the beach soon after, not wanting to become the gulls' next target.
It wasn't the picturesque seaside retreat I had imagined. Determined to salvage the day, we found a restaurant for dinner, a place that had good reviews and looked promising.
After what felt like forever waiting for food, we realised they had forgotten our order entirely. By the time our meals finally arrived, we were the last people in the restaurant.
It wasn't exactly the ending I had hoped for.
It's evident there were glimpses of what Margate could become - eccentric boutiques, artistic venues, and the promise of something greater.
In 2022, the Cliftonville area of Margate was recognised amongst Time Out's 'coolest' neighbourhoods globally. Alongside destinations such as Colonia Americana in Mexico and Cais do Sodre Lisbon, the district was the sole UK location to secure a place in the worldwide top 10.

However, the deterioration was difficult to overlook. Labour's Helen Whitehead, who serves as Deputy Leader and Cabinet Member for Housing, contended that Time Out's portrayal of "great coffee" and "offbeat attractions" presents a rather misleading picture.
"Regeneration should provide a future for everyone. Gentrification doesn't. And the world described in the Time Out article excludes the reality of most of the residents I work with," she told The Isle of Thanet News in 2022. "Housing here isn't affordable for most. It's in a state of hyperinflation, with constant displacement."
According to a survey released by Rightmove in 2022, property values have surged most dramatically in Margate, having doubled over a decade. House prices averaged £305,136 over the last year.
In truth, Margate seemed more like a shadow of its previous glory - a bid to reclaim a golden age that had long since disappeared. The shoreline, the town centre, even the general ambience - everything appeared weary and in desperate need of revitalisation.
Would I return? Most likely not. Certain destinations leave you keen to revisit, but Margate, in my experience, wasn't amongst them.
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